The Switch from central electric heat to a Wood-burning Stove

This "wall" in the center of our living and kitchen area just had to come down from the very beginning.

You can read about that remodel here.

We had to get rid of the big, loud, energy vampire of a furnace and fireplace.

We decided on this stove vs a new heat pump unit because of the following
 - we have an abundance of wood and access to wood
 - the house is tiny and the new stoves are so efficient that the wood use should be under 2 cords a year in our "mild" climate.
 - the new stove burns with super low emissions.
 - our summers rarely have temps above 90 so the use of a ac unit part of the heat pump is almost useless
 - when we are without electricity we can still have warmth and cooking
 - when in use, it can be used as a cook-top, reducing the need for the electric range in the winter.
 -  should save us about $400 in electric heating costs per year.



Now for the review of the stove in the 1st season

Stats 

House: Split-level "kit" house with a walk-out basement. 1980 built. Crawl attic. The windows and attic insulation have been updated sometime since the 80's.
Stove is on the top floor where the living/kitchen area and bedrooms are located (appx 1000 sf).

Stove: Pacific Energy, Alderlea cook-top model T4 with, Excel chimney system.

I chose this model because of the high quality of the company. The model features steel box with "floating" iron for heat retention. Built in shield for reduced clearance from combustibles. Hinged removable iron grate flat top for a variety of cooking needs. Big glass door for ambiance. Features air wash flow for the ceramic glass. Size to fit where I needed to put it and for the area of space to heat. Price. ..although it is a top quality stove, they're are way more pricey ones out there.

When I get to old or tired of the work of split wood, I can buy and use pressed logs or convert it to pellets or gass. 

Every time the inspectors come, they comment on the quality and say "This is a really nice stove".

Climate: Mild Pacific northwest USA. 10 months rainy season September-June. 7 months cold starts in October with daytime temps 60 F and under with nites in 40s. Winter cold is usually daytime of 40s and nites dipping down into the upper to mid 30's.
It rarely freezes here. We also have power outages typically in the cooler months due to downed trees from landslides, wet ground and high winds.

History:  We have been acclimating to the cooler weather here. I notice that we like it in the mid-60's in the house at night.
I use a tiny space heater (milkroom heater) under my work table on  "mild" days to get the chill off and it works great in the tiny upstairs. It allows me to heat up the hands and feet but not get too hot while working around the house. It has 1300 and 1500 watt settings.

Review disclaimer: I have not been paid for this review or received free products for it. The review is based on my experience and reflect my own opinions. Performance will not be the same for everyone due to type of wood, moisture of wood, climate, building size & energy efficiency and personal comfort preference.

Season Diary:

This is the boring part!!! I documented some boring details to help me keep record. The first few months are long and it tapers down. Scroll down for a Summary at the end.

September 2013

Early rainy season (fall/winter).
I fired it up on a nice 60degree, sunny day to let the paint cure and open up the windows.

HEATING

We fired it up again on a mildly cool day to knock the chill out and learn how it burns and cooks so we are not having a learning curve on really cold days or in a power outage.
It  was 62 high 51 low F, rainy and cloudy with sun peeks in the evening.
The place got pretty warm (mid - upper 70's). So warm in fact, it was too hot to sleep comfortably.

October 2013

Fall-like weather

Oct1st...
Woke up to 60 in the house with overnite temps of mid-low 40's, current temps of 45 with forecast of 100% rain (of course) and a high of 55 dropping back to mid-low 40s at night.
Decided to use the stove to heat us up this morning and get the house warm for overnite.
Started burn at about 7:30am. By 10am it was 70 in the house. I opened the bedroom doors to let the heat in. Let the fire go out on its own around 3pm.  9pm still 70 in house and 50 outside. Kept the stove "cold" for the nite to see how we do in the 40's this nite.

Oct 2nd...
Woke up to 65 this morning in the house and about 45 out - nice retention house!

Oct 9th
I woke up to 36 degrees and it was a nice 65 in home. With just a maple log on low put in at 8pm - perfect.
It was a bit warm for me going to bed but the waking up temp was wonderful.
Supposed to get to 60 today and mostly sunny so, I just got a small fire going to knock off the chill as the house temps are dropping slowly.

October seemed a bit crazy with using a stove. It is that time of year where most of the time it isn't needed.
Starting up from cold (without coals) has its challenges.

Energy Usage Comparison for October
2012 - 1109.90 kwh   Temp - 49avg, 68H, 32L
2013 -   990.87 kwh   Temp - 47avg, 75H, 28L
       
 = 119.03 less usage (about $15- savings)

November 2013

Nov 7th
Now it is starting to get "winter" around here in the Pacific Northwest. The 1st snow fell in the passes and we are pretty much a constant below 50F with cloudy skies. The stove is being used more often than not but is still on the low burn side most of the time.
Kudos to the house as I have been able to keep it between 60-70 all the time.
I am able to cook on it more often. But, I don't know how much it will help with the electric consumption as I realized I bake more in the cooler months. The oven is another electricity eater.

Nov 30th
It has been a strange fall in the western cascade foothills this year - clear and cool and very "Fall-like".
We have had cold snaps (below freezing at night) of about 3 days followed by about 5 days of typical weather (cool, wet and above freezing).  This month I probably used about an 8'x3' row of wood.


Energy Usage Comparison for November
2012 - 1565.36 kwh   Temp - 45avg, 66H, 23L
2013 -  1086.67 kwh   Temp - 43avg, 60H, 19L

          = 478.69 less usage (about $45-52 savings)
               ($ 80.32 actual compared to previous year November bill)

DECEMBER 2013

December 1st
We start of the month with 2 full cords left.

December 4th
Unusually frigid week. This is not the norm here luckily.
Woke up to 57 in the house this morning - boo. Got a learning curve here with below freezing.
Daytime is no problem. I have been going through more fuel and keeping it on medium to high for the day.
We had about 3 weeks of the coldest temps in a few years here. We got down to 8 one night.
I experimented with pressed logs (100% wood) and it went well. They heat well, evenly and leave a nice coal piece for overnite.


Energy Usage Comparison for December
2012 - 2282.625 kwh   Temp - 36avg, 46H, 26L
2013 -  1466.58 kwh   Temp - 36avg, 53H, 8L

          = 816.045 less usage (about $80-90 savings)

JANUARY 2014

This has been a strange winter here in the PACNW. Not a lot of "warm" rainy days and quite a bit of sun and cold. Really really cold!


Energy Usage Comparison for January
2013 - 2432.37 kwh   Temp - 36avg, 55H, 17L
2014 -  1424.6  kwh   Temp - 40avg, 57H, 19L

      1007.77kwh less usage = (about $110 savings)
                                              ($156.78 actual compared to previous year bill)

February 2014

The first week was another bitterly frigid week with lows in the low teens.
On the 7th the stove started smoking more than it should when we opened the door to reload.
The 8th, I cleaned out the ash. The CO alarm sounded shortly after I cleaned and started a new fire. We aired the house and I let the fire die. The alarm did not sound again but to be safe, we did not use the stove again and instead let the small electric space heater keep the temperature stable.

The 9th, I opened the window in case it was a pressure issue, and lit a paper fire to heat up the chimney and see how the smoke goes up the chimney. I noticed smoke coming out from the stove collar. So, a call to the certified chimney folks is in order for the morning.

Lesson: always have a backup or two.

All cleaned and chimney and stove all in good order. The spark screen was clogged. Good news is they said the chimney looked good for this time in the season and just recommended to have it cleaned again at the end of next season and to go up on the roof about 2 times in the season to clean off the screen and take a look at the chimney.

Energy Usage Comparison for February
2013 - 1835.31 kwh   Temp  - 41avg, 53H, 24L
2014 -  1578.495  kwh  Temp - 38avg, 55H, 10L

   256.815   kwh less usage = (about $25- $31 savings)

March 2014

At the start of March, we have gone through a full cord so far this season. There is a months worth in the log hold on the deck. I think it will last us thru the rest of the season. The weather is actually starting to show a warming trend. I have been lightning it up mainly in the evening around 3-5pm when it starts to cool in the house. March has used almost all the wood on the deck. I light up the stove usually about once a day to every-other day or just in the evening or in the morning.

Energy Usage Comparison for March
2013 - 1718.43 kwh   Temp - 45avg, 71H, 24L
2014 -  1404.03  kwh   Temp -46avg, 68H, 26L
             314.4 kwh less for march

  534    kwh less usage = (about $ 30 savings)
                  $373.37 march2013              ($ 77.86 actual compared to previous year bill)
                  $295.51 march 2014

April 2014

April starts with some nice spring weather. We also have about 2-3 days of wood "left over" from last month.
We had to use it 2-3 times in April but for the most part I use the small space heater most nites set to 65 degrees to make sure it doesn't get too chilly. Hubby turns the thing on full blast in the morning and I turn it back down after he leaves.


Energy Usage Comparison for April
2013 - 1270.82 kwh   Temps - 48avg, 71H, 32L
2014 -   1161.71 kwh Temps - 49avg, 80H, 32L

    109.11 kwh less usage = (about $15 savings)
               

May 2014

Typical spring weather for here. Cool days and nights with occasional warm days and unpredictable rain.
The start of the month, I used it once or twice on cool, very cloudy days where the high was in the low 50's.

Energy Usage Comparison for May
2013 - 948.96 kwh   Temps - 55avg, 84H, 30L
2014 -   873.24 kwh Temps - 56avg, 86H, 39L

      kwh less usage = 75.72 (about $10-13 savings)
                  $238.95 may 2013              ($23.60 actual compared to previous year bill)

                  $215.35 may 2014

so far for season - $338.56

Summary

Savings & Expenses

$338.56 for the 2013-2014 burn season as compared to 2012-2013 electric furnace use.

This is not as much as I had hoped for.
The only difference from last years' energy usage is that... The previous year with the electric furnace, I kept it pretty cool in the house during the day and bundled and used the space heater right next to me while working. There is also a heater in the well house that kicks on whenever it gets under 60F (I've got to fix that). I think the man-cave usage may have been the same. He likes it pretty toasty down there in the winter. This year... I kept it very cozy in the upstairs and if I were using the furnace as opposed to the wood-stove, it would have been a much higher bill. I can't go back past one year in my bill history. I do remember having 2 mid-winter bills in 2011-2012 that were between $500-$600. That is why I was so conservative the following winter. Comparing that to the 2 largest in the conservative year at $375-450, the savings would be a whole lot greater and... I do not have to bundle up so much and sit in front of the space heater.

"Hidden" expenses of woodststove life...

The annual cleaning and inspection which runs about $140 around here.

If you have to purchase wood, you can expect to pay $200-$300 per split cord in this area.

We did purchase a cord the first year as a just-in case. We used the cord and a little of our older stuff.

We do not have to purchase wood for the next 2 years (so far) as we have almost a full cord from 2 years ago, about a cord and a half from a downed maple from last year, and about a large cord from a dead fir we just felled and a dead maple and alder that will be felled next weekend. Looking at all the trees on our acreage that are on the way out (there was a maple disease a few years ago and the fir beatle that are killing quite a few trees around here), we should be set for at least few years after that. Hopefully with only a cord - to one and a half cords per season... our acreage will be self-sustaining.

Start up costs. ..

Stove

Chimney system

Floor protection 

Install 

Inspectors

Insurance will increase

Tools 

Fuel

Fuel storage 

Cleaning maintenance 

Concerns...

Safetey

Yes, there is fire and carbon monoxide hazards. But... you could also have a fire start from the electrical wiring in your home, space heaters, ovens, toasters, fixtures and even the electric furnace. If you are a smoker, or light candles (or tend to burn food - guilty) etc... CO2 is a huge concern if you have gas lines of any use.
When a quality stove and components are properly installed and maintained and used, the risk is no more than any other appliance in your home.
We did have the CO alarm sound one day. Our spark screen had build up and was not allowing the stove to vent properly. A quick and easy maintenance that we could have done ourselves and prevented if we had checked it. After a cleaning and inspection from a certified sweep team, we were on our way. This was toward the end of our burn season anyway. Next year, we will check and clean the screen in December and check it every month.

Accidental burns...
Our stove is steel box surrounded by floating iron plates and a heat shield on the back. During normal burning, I can touch the sides, top, and back without getting burned. It is HOT but not enough to burn unless I intentionally leave my hand on there. The glass and areas of the front door are hot enough to burn as is the cook top (has vented iron cover). I have been burned twice when I have carelessly loaded the box with my hands instead of using tongs or fire gloves (the box is small). If I had a young one I would install a fire gate around the hearth anyway.

Messy. 

Yup, it is messy. Wood sheds dirt, bark, moss and yes, bugs etc... in the house in the wood pile and when loading.
There is ash to clean. During the peak burn season I empty the ash about twice a month. It burns so efficiently that the ash is very minimal.
I vacuum, at least once a day around the hearth because I like it to look clean. I also wipe down the stove from ash and dust and clean the glass about once a week.
Compared to the central unit, there is no more dust in the home than before. And, I feel like there is less.

Glass Is easy to clean. Just a moist rag and a clean paper towel. Add a dab of white ash for tough areas. 

Smell:

It only smelled of smoke when the chimney needed cleaning.
Outside smell - does not smoke except on a start-up and smells of a faint wood-burning scent.

Work:

Yes, especially if you split and collect your own cord wood.
That can be reduced if you purchase your wood and pay to have it stacked. Or use pressed logs. But, you still have to bring it in.

Convenience:

None unless when the electricity is out then, it is a HUGE convenience!
If you are gone most of the day it may not be useful except in power outages.
If if is cold in the house it does take 1-2 hours to get it warm depending on how cold it is in the first place.
We came back from Christmas break in Texas to about a 40 degree house at midnight and it was not fun staying up for the next hour to get the stove warm and going. That is when our bed heaters really were more than welcome!
On the super cold spells I would get up at 2am to re-load. I think i probably had to do that about 6 days out of the whole year.
I can be sure it is going well before i leave to go shopping, return 2 hours later and it is still good.
Sometimes it is really hard to start from cold. Part, I think was the quality of wood we purchased. I don't think it was fully seasoned. Next season we will be using our own wood and will know exactly how long it has been seasoned. I also have cut our own kindling - I like it much better.

Heating:

In the bitter cold (below about 25 F day time temps) it kept the house comfortable at a full burn 24 hours a day. In most of the burn season (non-peak) it is great and I can easily keep it between 60-70 in the house. In the October and April-May months it will get the house really really warm and I prefer to only light up on the occasional evening or morning and use the small electric space heater to knock off the chill and wear my house sweater.

You would think heat is heat and I thought people were crazy when they raved about the "feel" of the heat from their woodstoves. I am joining them in their crazy... I love the heat it makes. It feels natural and beats the forced air furnace in the way it feels. There is a difference.
It may have also helped fight off the SAD this year. Really, it does lift the spirit on a cold, rainy and dark day to sit in front of the stove and watch the flames and feel the warmth.

So far, so good.

Starting of 2nd Season. ..

My own seasoned wood is so much easier to start! Really didn't get started burning till Nov this year and had 2 freezing snaps.  Emptied the ash 3 times and took a month to fill the ash bucket. I check the CO2 alarms almost daily. The numbers have been at zero except when I burn food.  Oops.

Are you considering a woodstove? 

There are so many options and situations. There is no one solution as a woodstove purchase and needs are custom. 

Know your climate

Know your home

How much work do you want to put in? 

Are you gone all day? 

Do you like convenience and consistent, instant comfort?

Do you want complete off grid functionality? 

Do you have a place for it to be safely installed?

Do you know of all the regulations in your area for use,  maintenance, installation etc? 

Are you aware of all the expenses? 

Have you done your research? 

I don't need to cope.

How to cut crown molding with a miter saw and NOT have to cope.

* Don't be a dummy. Be safe when handling power tools by following manufacturer's instructions and always using appropriate safety equipment. *

My order of crown molding arrived and I watched a few how-to videos about cutting and installing.
All of them said you have to cope some joints. Coping is taking a fine hand saw and manually cutting an angle so the corners fit.

If you know me, I thought there HAS to be a better and easier way!
So I played with a scrap for about 5 minutes and found the answer.
C'mon guys! I am not a pro contractor or an engineer and it took me FIVE MINUTES to figure it out.

This is not an all-inclusive how to on crown molding - just a description of the 2 cuts to make to get 4 different 45 degree corners WITHOUT having to cope.
I don't do videos so, I hope this visual helps you to make quick and easy interior and exterior corner cuts for your crown molding install.

Tips:
Not all corners are square.
I cut about 1/4 inch longer than measured to give a little wiggle room to adjust.
Be prepared to make lots of minor adjustments because your house may not have square corners.
Order a few more pieces than you need because 1) there WILL be damaged peices in the shipping 2) you can practice with one 3) you can be less stressed about making a mistake 4) you have extra in case something happens later on.

EXTERIOR CORNERS














Exterior Right Corner

Set the saw angle at 45   pointed to the Right.
Set the molding upside down on the saw.
The corner you are cutting needs to be facing toward the Right and on the left side of the blade.

My hand is there to hold the molding for photo only

Exterior Left corner

Pretty much opposite of the right side.
Set the saw angle at 45   pointed to the Left.
Set the Molding upside down on the saw.
The corner you are cutting needs to be facing towards Left and on the right side of the blade.

As seen in the photo above... one cut makes 2 different corners. It depends on what side of the blade your cut is as to the corner you are making. Make sure your cut is lined up. I mark the bottom edge of the molding that touches the wall on the back side of the molding and line that up. But, there are other tutorials on the web that can show you how to measure. 

INTERIOR CORNERS

Inside Left corner

This is an Inside Right Corner cut.

Set the Saw angle at 45  pointed to the Right
Set the molding upside down on the saw.
The Corner that you are cutting needs to be facing toward the left to make the cut on the right side of the blade.


Inside Right corner

Set the saw angle at 45  pointed to the Left.
Set the molding upside down on the saw.
The corner you are cutting needs to face toward the Right to make the cut on the left side of the blade.

So, That is it. Easy peasy.

More tips... I painted mine BEFORE cutting and installing. SO way EASIER!
I also used carpenters wood filler putty to smooth the joints, fill any gaps and fix minor damage. It can be sanded and painted over for a smooth and seamless look.

Cree LED Light Bulb Review

As part of our wall remodel project, we installed a new, energy efficient, better-looking light fixture in our kitchen to replace the old, ugly monstrosity that seemed to have a magnetism for bruising scalps.

As a part of the fixture, we needed some dimable LED bulbs.

I decided to go with the new Cree brand as they boasted about the low wattage (9 watts) and great light. A bonus is that they are dimable.

I purchased 2 Cree LED 60 watt equivalent daylight bulbs to place in the fixture.

The packaging - easy to open without getting sliced up. Nice

Upon taking the bulb out I was taken back and a bit confused. As I grabbed the bulb, it felt sticky! I was wondering what the heck got into the package. But... it was coated with a rubbery, clear coating! I thought that was cool - it you drop it it won't shatter and it gives you a grip on the bulb. Time will tell how easy it makes them to clean after so many odd years of dust and grime accumulation.

When we turned on the light we hated it. TOO BRIGHT. Well... at least for the fixture which has a leather-like warm tint to the glass.

We transferred the bulbs to the kitchen lights ( a white marble frost glass) and LOVE THEM! They replaced a warm led and a CFL.
LOVE LOVE LOVE the brightness and color temperature in the kitchen lights.

Down side... I can see how dirty the kitchen REALLY is now :-(

Cuisinart FP-12 12 cup Food Processor Review

So. My old Hamilton beach had a heart attack and died after 5 years of occasional processing.

I need a new one that can handle more but cant' afford a thousand dollar pro model.


And if you know me, you know that I don't' just go out and buy a replacement without hours of research.


I started out with a budget and what I wanted or did not want in my next processor.

Here is what I experienced in my old HB.
Good for occasional use. As I have a much larger garden and process my own foods a great deal more than I used to, I need an upgrade. Here is my evaluation of a good little home budget unit that is higher end than what you will find at the local Walmart.

Wants and not wants:
bigger bowl
deeper liquid capacity
much much bigger feed tube
better quality / motor

Budget #1 - under $100
Research - nothing under $100 had the features or good product reviews

Budget #2 - under $200
Research - much wider options here. It was a toss-up between a kitchen aid and this one. My reviews that follow will explain why I chose this unit.


REVIEWS

Purchase

I found this unit for the best deal on 3 sites. Color finishes vary in price greatly among all retail sources.
I went with the black as it was cheapest and I prefer it over white.
Amazon, Cuisinart and Bed Bath and Beyond all had it within pennies of each-other.
Now was to see if I could get the best shipping and coupon options.
Amazon had no coupons or deals and charges tax and free SH.
Cuisinart did not charge tax or shipping (for my state) but as I needed the unit within 5 days and there were severe storms on the eastern coast (Connecticut location) they informed that SH may not be quick or reliable.
BB&B had reliable, fast shipping and a coupon for 20% off any item at the time so, I used the savings from the coupon to pay for the faster shipping. It came on-time via Fed ex and in great condition.

Just in time for Hummus B' Laham nite!

In the Box

USES 1-3

Loves:

buttons

Unit - this thing is HEAVY! With it's rubber feet it stays put! No need for suction cups as this thing does not know how to walk across the counter under any load. Although it does need a hand on while doing bread dough.

The Buttons are encased - no getting the junk out with a toothpick here. Big buttons and are easy to engage with minimal pressure.

easy to clean & solid blade tops

Cord storage area is nice but nothing special.

Dishwasher-ability is nice but, I prefer to hand-wash and I can be sure no gunk gets down in the crevices.

Blade lock is GREAT!

The blades themselves come nice and close to the bottom and edges and incorporate very well.
I LOVE that the blade top is solid. this allows you to be able to pour stuff right on top without worrying about it getting down the shaft.

NO LOVE:
gave yeast bread 2 chances - kept getting up the center of the blade and down into the base

ON HUMMUS

It went through the hummus nicely - even pureed the sesame seeds to make a super smooth yummy hummus. The engine did not skip a beat or slow down. I was able to make a 3-can batch no problem.

ON YEAST DOUGH

The powerful motor gave it a beating for sure. It did slow and stop at a point in both batches.
It DID get dough up the middle shaft and down into the base. Both times and even after following the directions by Cuisinart both times.
The cleaning tool that came with my unit made it nice to be able to clean the base post but, I prefer not to have to do this again.
Summary - Leave the yeast dough's to your mixer or bread machine.



More reviews coming later as I use this unit more.


ADJUSTABLE SLICING DISK & shredder

Pretty awesome. there are 15 sizes available between 1mm and 6mm.

Overall the slicing and shredding disks are great.
The beef:
- seems to leave more odd pieces than the old processor and
- can't use with the small bowl.


ON SOUPS = A+

OK. Lemme say... how did we ever get along without locking blades and blades that cover the center hole psot.

WOW - making soup is actually FUN with this -
 - just pour the saute (or whatever) from the pan right into the bowl - no fuss with getting it along the edges - just pour it right on in!
 - then, let the machine quietly do its work
best part - pour it back into the cooking pot - no getting your fingers all up in the soup or blades plopping into the pan.


UPDATE - the lid has the worst design and harbors mold and food particles that cannot be cleaned out. You can order a new lid unit but at the price, I just ordered a whole new unit of a different brand. I also chose a new one because it was way cheaper than a replacement lid. The cuisinart is too heavy for me as my disability worsens. The cuisinart takes up way too much space int he cabinet.

Product Review of Hydrating Sugar Scrub by Moody Sisters

This post was originally a guest post for the Moody Sisters Skincare blog.
http://moodysisters.blogspot.com/2012/07/fan-review-of-moody-sisters-hydrating.html

Product Review of Moody Sisters Hydrating Sugar Scrub

I have to disclaim this review as I received this product FREE! I won one of the Moody Sisters' giveaway contests via Facebook. I was SOOO excited 'cause winning free stuff is just a rarity for me especially in ratio to all the stuff I have "entered" over the years.
I was excited to try a product from a fellow "Etsian",  Washingtonian, and a fellow "working" mom. Supporting others like me is something I try to do especially if they have a great product or service.

It took me a while to review this product because honestly,  it is not a product I use everyday.

Here is a little about the scrub if you click this link you will be taken to the product page on Etsy.














I used this to soothe my worn out hands after gardening, working with construction, landscaping or working with the chickens. Night-time was the time used most. I did not apply according to directions  (sorry). I had to moisten my hands a bit as the scrub I had would just ball up on my really dry hands. I think my skin sucked up all the moisture out of the stuff ;-). If my skin was moistened with a bit of water, it would scrub up nicely and evenly. Then I rinsed with luke warm or cool water as to not "melt" any of the oils off my skin. Then I would air dry or lightly pat with a towel.
Sometimes it seemed the sugar granuals were too rough after a really tough day on the hands. If you have some sore or worn spots, I don't suggest using it.
Otherwise...
The scrub smells good enough to eat - but don't eat it!
It does great exfoliating and leaves a wonderful moist, smoothe, non-greasy feeling on the skin. Like a nice drink of cool water on a warm day. Ahhh...
I tried it on my feet foot one night to do a comparison/contrast.
Oh the difference! The foot that got the scrub was so much smoother, and not all dry and crackly like the other foot. Poor other foot.

Oh yeah...
The scrub had separated a bit during shipment so I had to mix it up. No problem, just a bit confused when I opened my scrub and there was no scrub (it was all at the bottom).
The steel tin they used was a little rusted on the edges. I just gave them a good wiping down and it stayed rust free for quite sometime (till I put it on the edge of the tub - oops). Storing it away from excessive moisture seems to work great! Duh - it is steel after-all :-p.  I think they are also trying to get feedback from their customers and trying to find a better, safe and green alternative to the steel canisters.

Would I recommend?
Yes.
It is a great exfoliating body scrub that leaves the skin feeling fresh and moisturized.
And - you are supporting a micro business.
And - it is all organic and small batch made with love and care.
Here is the link again for the sugar scrub.

I can't wait to review more of their products.

Stupid Moles Must Die !

OK. I have tolerated the moles on our land thus far. They have 6 acres to play and about 4 of it is wild forest and they can have at it. After all, I love the wildlife and want to support it.

But, push comes to shove, and you have CROSSED THE LINE when it comes to completely pushing my plants out of the ground to make way for your grubby earthworm pie hole stuffing faces!

I did web research and watched videos on so many methods and decided to go with the Victor out of sight Mole trap/killer.
I wanted to try this because:

1. I do not want to use poisons as the poisons themselves can be harmful to other things and could be absorbed by the plants and what if a cat or other creature (my chickens) decides to eat a poisoned mole. Not good.
2. I did not want to use the castor oil because Castor oil, although natural is also is a poison.
3. I chose the trap from reviews, seems easy to clean (ewe), and although is a kill trap (my last resort) there are too many moles  - control the population.

I also bought a spinner to try in the garden as a repellent. But, I also don't want a mini wind farm here.

Note: although you kill off the pest, you are leaving a "vacant sign" for new ones to come in and take it's place.
I do not normally advocate kill traps. I prefer to live and let live.
In this case they have gone from the forest and are starting to take over the garden and living areas near the house. After all, they have 4 acres of the property to live in peace. I suggest they use it. It seems as though they are getting over-populated here.



Here is my review on this product: (disclaimer - I am not being paid to do this review - its all on my own but, I do get a commission if you purchase the product through the links on the photos from google affiliate ads).

Positive:
1 - it works
2 - its simple
3 - its extremely well built!

Negatives:
The set-up is tedious - you have to
1 - find the run
2- dig a careful clean hole
3-construct a bridge and channels just right
4-set the trap which is in itself like placing a landmine and you need super strength
5-you have to very carefully cover the thing
6-wait

Conclusion:
Yeah, I totally would recommend these and continue to use my own

Tips:
instead of covering with the dirt and marking - I use a big clay pot with the bottom hole covered and place it over the hole. That way I know exactly where I buried the *@$^@( thing AND it blocks the light AND it make it easy to check (nothing like digging up a trap to have it SNAP on you - yikes!)

And... don't forget the take the *@&$(@*&%  safety off before you cover it!

Here is a good video of a set up  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxPIU2XRRHo


We have caught 3 moles this year.
We "recycle" the corpses by chucking them out (way out) into the forest for the crows, ravens, and other wildlife to enjoy.


Spinners - do absolutely NOTHING to deter moles!



 But, they sure are pretty :-)

Organization Board

Oh, this is not an original idea by any means. I came across it on pinterest or blogs, or who knows what else.

I thought it was a great idea for consolidating all my important stuff to one "neat", accessible area.

I am sharing it with you so that maybe you can get some inspiration and ideas to do one that fits your needs and style!

Before:

The grocery list is on the fridge, calendar buried under the stacks of project ideas, bills, order forms, and photos on my crowded work table. The coupons get thrown anywhere from the office hutch to the windowsill and my purse (you know what that is like ladies - yikes!). When I need to find an idea that I want to work on for the shop, it is like sifting through earthquake rubble. Worst of all, my USB drives that contain my master images and listings for the shop are on the windowsill. I know IT folks - not an ideal location by any means.

After:

Googling and blog searching, i finally came up with a solution to fit MY needs.

Plywood was way too expensive and heavy.

OSB (particle board) was just too heavy and ugly for my taste.

I do have plenty of the cedar flooring that was salvaged from the basement walls that I use for the signs in my shop. That is pretty and light weight and I can put picture nails in it easily!

I got to work by laying out what things I needed on my board.

I designed, printed, framed and lay them out in various formats on the floor.

Measured what size back-board I would need.

Lay out the flooring, cut and fastened together. I used a scrap piece, cut in half and used wood glue and screws to hold the slats together.

 

Fastened a 50lb picture hanging hardware. 

 

Then placed my components and hung everything with pretty little brass picture nails.

 

The only thing that is not easily moved is the book holder. That needed to be on securely. I made it out of a scrap of 8x10 matte board (you can get them cheap from a framing or craft store). When you bend it into shape it will separate the layers. They can be hot glued into place to keep the form. Yes, I did sew the pocket for added strength (that was time consuming but, the bows are cute). I made the strap from a fabric scrap and 3 rubber bands. Used jewelry rings to clamp the ends together. Hot glued the strap to the back side and hung with 2 nails.

The pencil holder is the container from the bulldog clips. It is covered in the scrap fabric and hot-glued to the magnet board top.

 

The magnet board is put in a glass-less frame, backed with a matte scrap and hung. I put a nail for the coupon clip so I can remove it and bring it with me on shopping trips.

The USb hooks are just cheap small screw hook that i dipped in hammered copper paint (I have leftover from the deck). They screw easily into the frames I chose. The glass beads don't stick well to the painted frames with the E-600 so, i just hot glued them easy peasy.

I got the cheaper frames, magnet sheet, magnets, scrap matte and scrap fabric from our local craft store Ben Franklin's for under $30! The Expo dry erase with cool magnet/eraser and bulldog clips from the Walmart at under $10. The rest I had laying around. The TIME it took to make was about a week. Most of the time was dedicated to my figuring out what materials to use and what I could re-use from around the house. The actual build time was only 2 days. I had to measure, cut, sand, and wait for the glue to set overnight. The next day was installing the hardware and placing the components and hanging.

I love it.

Here are some products similar to what I used or some cute ideas.

Guest Blog Posts for Moody Sisters Organic Skincare

I have had the opportunity to be a guest blogger for Moody Sisters Organic skincare.
They are a sister team out of the foothills of the Eastern Cascades in Washington (only 150 miles from me over the mountains). They own an Etsy shop that makes quality organic natural body products and have the cutest crazy eye cat logos. They are fellow members of 2 teams I actively participate in on Etsy. They are also a small micro, home business and "local".

At the writing of this post, I have tried 4 of their products and am happy with all of them. Reviews to be posted later since I like to give thorough reviews.

So, today I am linking you to the Moody Sisters Blog for my published posts.

 

 Moody Sisters Organic Skincare blog

  Flan Recipe & fails
http://moodysisters.blogspot.com/2012/05/wednesday-guest-post-linky-59.html

 Natural dog treats
http://moodysisters.blogspot.com/2012/05/guest-post-natural-doggie-treats.html

Review of Hydrating Sugar scrub
http://moodysisters.blogspot.com/2012/07/fan-review-of-moody-sisters-hydrating.html

 All about Egg labeling
http://www.moodysisters.blogspot.com/2012/04/wednesday-guest-post-linky-418.html

Deer Fence 2 . 0

So...
Version 2 of the deer fence is underway.
(see post "Deer Fence" in 2011 for the 1st version)

Easy Gardener Xtreme Deer Barrier

pretty robust

I have purchased a more expensive (and robust) fencing.
I only bought 100 feet because of the cost. It will fence the blueberry hill and the front section. This would get the most deer impact. It will be a trial. If it holds up I will get another roll for the rest of the garden.

the Xtreme compared to the net bought last year  - big difference

It is noticeably stronger than the net but not the strongest available.
This product is fencing, not the net advertized as fencing that I got last year.

I purchased it from Amazon. The price was good. It came in 2 days after placing the order! Wow - I was very happy. It comes folded in half on a roll and wrapped in thin plastic.

I have done a few things different this time.

1 - installed a top-wire
     I bought a roll of wire at the hardware store and installed it along the top of the posts by wrapping it around the eye -screws and pulling it straight but not too tight. Then fastened the fence to it with 4" zip ties.

2 - used #10 eye-screws instead of staples. Used 4 for each post. fastened the fence with the zip-ties.

3- I used a dry gravel method of setting the posts. Dug down, set gravel in bottom, filled around the post with gravel and large stones, leveling the posts and packing the gravel as i filled the hole. Might regret nor setting in cement later. though thought it best to use this method cause i might have to move the posts later?


Onto the installation...

planning out the posts

It was fairly easy. The fence had stiffness to it and didn't get caught on everything like the net did.
It is 8 feet tall and I kinda centered it so that I had between 6-10 inches on the bottom and on the top.
I want the extra on bottom to flare out on ground outward to deter nosing under by the deer. I wanted a bit at the top for extra height. You can fold it down or better flare it outward at the top. I may end up doing the later down the road but am not too concerned right now. It is stiff enough to stay up fairly well at this point and the deer are not too interested in jumping.

finally up

I installed eyescrews on the posts. Installed wire on the top. Fastened the fence to the eyescrews and topwire with 4" black zip ties. Right now the bottom flare is being held down with logs and big rocks.

I used the old net along the rock wall and herb garden side 1 - because i did not buy enough to do the whole area due to price and 2 - that is the side that gets less deer impact. they typically travel from the front side and along the forest side.

Now to plant the blueberries and the rest and see how it holds up.

Automatic Dishwasher Detergent - Homestyle!

Ran out of "Finish Quantum" (my favorite dishwasher detergent). I am trying to squeeze every penny. So, why not try to squeeze here too? Why not try making my own?

There are so many recipes out there for homemade detergent. I had to be extra careful because I have a septic and well. I want to be extra careful what I return to my soil and groundwater! The earth is my "water treatment plant"! We also want to protect our watersheds and rivers - I loves me some salmons!

My detergent

Most recipes I found had salt. Not mine. Salt is not good for the soil or ground water. Not much will thrive in salty soil - just look at a beach line and the salt flats.

The citric acid was the most costly component of my recipe - but it is supposed to really help with the hard water and the cleaning so I am giving it a go. I could have bought it way cheaper online but, I kinda needed it and that's all they had.

Supplies

I came up with the following recipe:

2 cups Borax

2 cups Washing Soda

1 can (5oz)(also comes out to be a cup) of citric acid - I used Ball Produce Protector"5 Oz. Fruit-Fresh Produce Protector" since I couldn't find plain-ole citric acid. It has added dextrose (aka. simple sugar) and silicon dioxide (aka. rock that soaks up water- maybe that will help prevent the clumps that folks get when adding the acid)

I also added one of those silicon gel pack things you get in vitamins, shoes etc. to help prevent caking.

one of those packet thingies

I re-purposed a nut container and a coffee scoop for my mix

Use 1-2 tbsp in wash (1 for pre-wash cycle & the other in the closed regular wash cup.)

rinse aid

Ohh.... don't forget a part of the homemade stuff is you have to use the white vinegar as a rinse aid - about 1/4-1/2 cup or you will get cloudy glass. (this is also WAY cheaper than that blue gel rinse aid)

I HATE  the smell of vinegar... lets see how this goes.

Here is a comparison of cost

Finish - 25cents per load

Homemade -  7 cents per load or up to 14 cents per load if i use a scoop for pre-wash. (I don't like to hand wash my dishes before I dish wash them).

Cost savings of up to $65.70 per year


Results:

pre and main wash

Ok. I put in a load. We had a little bit of everything in there. I noticed that the inside of the washer is getting stained a yellowish color - maybe it's mildew?
I ran it on the full wash cycle.
When it reached the rinse cycle I opted to put in 1/4 cup vinegar.
Load completed.
I opened up the washer and everything was just as clean as the commercial stuff.
The inside of the machine was a tad less stained.
To me, who has a very sensitive nose, it did have a vinegar smell. It was not much and may not have been noticeable to others. It was not overwhelming by any means. Usually I get nauseous when my hubby cleans the coffee machine with vinegar. I did not get that at all with the dishes - just a faint trace when I opened it up. Next time I will not open it up so soon.

before - spaghetti on corelle

after - nice

before - mucky

after - sparkly

before

after - the handle is stained cause its old!

before - cheesy soup on plastic

after - those are water drops

 Ta Da!

After - yes, that IS a chicken water fountain in there

 Note - I used to wash my fountain by hand. It gets that yellow orange mildew in there and even though adding apple cider vinegar to their water has helped tremendously, I still couldn't get it out of the spout. I took it out of the dishwasher and spout is like new! No mildew!
 Note - vinegar also helps with disinfecting.
Now all I have to do is find a cheaper citric acid.
By the way... my mix has not clumped at all in over 48 hours. I guess the rock (silicon dioxide) in the Ball brand really helps!


UPDATE: March 16, 2012

Here we are about  a month later.
Still have not run out of detergent (from original mix).

It DID harden up around the end of week 2. I am not sure if it is from the mixture or the container as it is not airtight.

I use the mix in the pre-wash and the regular cycle.
I think it works almost as good as the quantum Finish.

Some drawbacks I have is that:
~ does not seem to work as well on fatty deposits as the Quantum Finish.
~ MUST use vinegar rinse EVERY Time to get dishes sparkly. Means you have to wait for the rinse cycle to put it in. No more starting and leaving the house. And, I can still smell faint traces of vinegar over-time. Not my favorite smell.

I read on other blogs about using a product called  Lemishine. I picked some up at the Walmart and did a clean cycle. Boy did my machine need it! To be truly honest... I think it needs more of a cleaning than just a Lemishine cycle! The Lemishine DID make a huge difference in the looks of the interior of my machine! And, I have noticed my dishes came out cleaner after the cleaning.
Side note... I also used it as a scrub on my metal sink and WOW! Shiny. Next I will try it on my Tub - ewe. I might blog that if it works well.
When I run out of my mix I will try a new recipe with the Lemishine instead of the citric acid. - I will Update about that one when the time comes.

For the hard mix... I just took a strong butter knife and stabbed it like a crazed killer and use the chunks.

UPDATE: April 11. 2012

Still have detergent! It got SO HARD I could not break it up with a knife! - Remedy - added water to soften it up and it has stayed soft for about 3 weeks so-far.

Lemishine - worked OK on the shower - still had to use more "elbow grease" than I like.

FINAL UPDATE: April 30, 2012

Finally ran out the other day. Now I can try a new formula! Thanks to all the comments below! I didn't expect to have so many views on this all at once - thanks folks!
Currently, I am using Method brand  (It was on super clearance at my store for 2 bucks a package! Had to try it especially since my home-made was running low). Used it for 4 loads and works better than my formula here but not quite as well as my Finish Quantum standby. Downside- to get Method regularly would be less frugal although (hopefully) better for the environment than the Finish. I use Method by popping it in the washer tub before starting (not in the main compartment).

Note: my washer instructions advise against using vinegar regularly as it will break down some of the components. Which is ok because I would forget to add it most of the time. ;-P
Anyway... I will have to try a new formula and write a 2.0 post about it when I am done experimenting.



BTW: the formula you use matters on the kind of water you have. Mine is from a well and super mineral heavy especially IRON!